Tuesday, 13 October 2009

25 September, Day 4: Pamplona - Lorca

Distance: 49.5 (including detour to Decathlon)


The hostel has the policy that there should be silence until 7am, but by 6, people started getting up and preparing to leave. By seven, Oscar came to ask if we had any pliers in our tool kit, since he had put the key to his suitcase lock, inside the suitcase... We didn't but fortunately, the hospitalero did and they managed to open it.

Leaving the hostel, Pamplona

We were not in a hurry, but still had to have breakfast and be out of the hostel by 8:30, like everybody else. Two "bicigrinos" and one "suitcase pilgrim". Our plan was to go to Decathlon, an outdoor and sports shop, where we had found a bicycle with and acceptable price that looked suitable to do the trip.

And so, we started a pilgrimage to Decathlon, some 3.5km from the hostel, followed by Oscar, pulling his suitcase.

The suitcase pilgrim

We arrived to the shop and still had to wait until 10am, when it opened; then Oscar and Micael went in, while I stayed out with our loaded bicycles and the suitcase. Once he bought the bicycle, they came to get the seat, pedals and rack, that Oscar had brought with him, and they went back inside to fit them to the new bicycle. Finally, around noon, the bike was ready to be loaded with panniers and we were ready to go (the suitcase found a resting place in the rubbish bin).

Fitting the bike

We left Pamplona by the university campus and from there we could see the hills, full of windmills, that we were heading for.

Near Mañeru

We were following the camino and soon came the first uphill bit, quite steep and uneven and at some point I had to stop and push... But, oh my!, one thing is to push your bike alone and a very different one to push it when its loaded (about 10 kg extra); it was awkward and soon I was breathless!


It leveled a little and we pedaled again and then there was another steep climb; another pushing session, slow and with several stops to catch my breath (it seems I should have done more upper body exercises!); Oscar and Micael were able to pedal a little farther and then they were quicker pushing. Micael offered to help me with the bicycle but I said I would try to do it by myself.

Going up Alto del Perdón

We finally made it to the top of Alto del Perdón, surrounded by windmills, with the Monument to the Pilgrims and a strong wind that could almost blow us away.


Monument to the Pilgrim, Alto del Perdón

Following Iñigo's advise, we took the road instead of the camino, since the latter was steep and rocky and the former is pretty much unused due to the new highway built nearby.


Alto del Perdón looking West

We went through sunflower fields and vineyards, and the villages of Uterga and Muruzábal, from where we took the detour to the Church of Eunate, believed to have been built in the XII century, either by the Templar Knights or the Knights Hospitaller. We had some fruit and I called the Albergue Privado La Bodega del Camino en Lorca, to book.

Iglesia de Eunate

Our next stop was at Puente de la Reina, where the cited bridge is the main attraction.


Puente de la Reina

When leaving, Oscar and Micael tried to adjust the shifter of the new bike, which was already giving some problem.

Ajusting shifter

We decided to continue by the camino, and then we reached a very broken part, steep and full of loose rocks; we met a man there who just said "not a good way"; it turned out to the an abandoned Roman Way and we got to a place where the bridge had collapsed and it took some effort and pushing for us to pass and get back on the deserted road and ride on to Lorca, where we easily found our hostel, very cozy.

We showered, did some laundry, went to buy a few things for breakfast and came back on time for dinner (we were starving!): pasta, fish with french fries, bread, ice cream and wine. While we ate, the place filled; it seemed to us that it is the social center of the village so all the couples arrive with their kids, who run around while the parents have a drink and chat.

After briefly planning the next day, we where ready for bed. In our dormitory, we shared with a French couple and a Swiss fellow.

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